1985 Hydrodyne 20 I/O Restoration....

What advantages have you found in using that 5 blade prop ?

 

Hi Van:

I ran a 3-blade 21P and a high-five 5 blade 17P on the 1975 HD 18 i/o that I sold last October. The three blade was a little torquie in the corners and the 17 slipped nicely to keep the speed up but also reduce the torque steer. The real advantage of 4 and 5 blade props is the hole shot that they offer. The prop on the 1985 HD 20 i/o is a high-five 21P. the 1975 did ok with it but really needed a 19P high-five. 21P high five should make for a good setup for the 20.

Kevin-

 

Attached are some pics of the interior redo. I replaced the strut on the windshield and the Carling toggle switches on the dash received Carling breakers and silicon boots instead using a fuse panel. I spent a lot on online studying to get the toggle switch and breaker wiring correct. They are a little tricky but not rocket science.

I also took out the “tabs for the lower side bolsters that I glassed in earlier and created a ¾ inch thick shelf above the chine to make the carpet install easier, provide a nice base for the lower bolster to anchor to, and provide a more clean and finished look.

For the carpet, I chose an 8.5 foot width “run of the mill” marine carpet and will probably go with Aqua-turf (Manufactured by Dorsett) next time around. The 8.5 foot width was not necessary after installing the shelf above the chine(s).

I glued the carpet down with the product shown, Dap neoprene contact cement. The carpet was glued in sections working from the centerline out and from the back to the front. The flat floor of the 20 makes for a pretty easy install, I only had two butt joints to contend width (pics of the cup holders show the butt joint behind). The carpet looks good but time will test how well it stands up.

The pylon brackets were also re-anchored through the floor into the block beneath. I used the 3M 4000 slow set for this task. I kept a remnant of the carpet for the floor under the bench seat but choose not glue it down to avoid mildew issues.

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Here is the link:

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https://picasaweb.google.com/103493629086672686443/CarpetInstallationPics#

 

So I'm tired of hearing the term "polar vortex" here in the mid-west but hopefully will have a normal spring/summer. Attached are the teak application pics that occurred last summer. The previous owner(s) decided to remove the strips for what ever reasons but I like the look and choose to re-apply. The teak strips were milled from a 2007 master craft ski deck that a ski friend was not using (free-cycled for some barley malt beverages).

As the pictures suggest, I was struggling with the geometry of the teak on the engine cover and did't know how to capture it. I think the engine cover strips with the matching angles and bevels did the job in the end.

Also shown is a pic of the the whole boat with the bow teak application from the upolstery shop. This hull did not have teak strips on the bow but it made sense to add them. The bow is supper slippery with the wet sanding and waxing.

here is the link.

https://picasaweb.google.com/103493629086672686443/TheTeakApplication#

 

Your restoration looks great. Teak on motor cover looks good hope it doesn't encourage walking on the cover. I had mine reinforced several years ago. It still makes me nervous for people to walk on it.
Would be great to get the three 20 I/O's together sometime. I'm on Lake Martin in East central Alabama and GaDyne is on Lake Seminole in South West Georgia.

Vann

 

Hey Van:

Thanks for the kind words regarding the teak application and restoration in general. Someone had already "walked" across the engine cover of the 85 HD i/o prior to my ownership and the large teak strip takes care of the blemish that resulted from a carb bolt deflection coming through the geocoat. If this wasn't the case, I would have not applied the teak strakes on the engine cover. The 1985 HD i/o 20's engine cover has a balsa core construction for structureal suport and a lot of contact points (to support loads) so beyond the aforementioned issue, don't anticipate any furture issues re deflection with the aforementioned teak application.

That being said, it would be nice to get these boats on the same water (and any other 20 i/o's if they exist). Maybe the Hydrodyne meet (or meat as it was once preasented on this web-site). BTW, I want your trailer, but in mid-night blue.

Kevin Bugel-
Brookfield, WI

 

Just a quick bump. We're still waiting on "SPRING" here in SE Wisconsin. Can not and will not bother bringing the 85 out until the weather looks more stable. I have a few issues to take care of but it could be in the water in a day's time as soon as the air temps rise.

I truely can not remember a winter as severe as the one we were dealt here in the Midwest. Definitely looking for the longer and warmer days of summer.

Cheers,

Kevin-

 

Just noticed you used the DAP product for your carpet. I hope it works well. I have tried to use it on another project and it did not hold when around water. If you read on the can label it states that it is "water resistant", and not "water proof".

Greg

 

Hey Greg:

The 1985 HD 20 i/o is the third marine carpet job that I have done with Dap (solvent-activated and neoprene-based) contact cement. I don't place cement on both contact surfaces, just the floor with a little more build up than a tac layer and use a J-roller (for formica laminant top installations) to create pressure to the bonding surfaces (it is in some of the pictures on the inboard chine).

The 1975 was done in 2000 with Dorset Aquaturf marine carpet and never released. The 1973 HD 18 that I co-owned was done in 2000 as well and the co-owner had it go to weather because of a subpar cover for 2 or 3 summers but the carpet never released, also in Dorset Aquaturf carpet. For your issue, it maybe a factor of how it was applied or issues with the backing of carpet product used.

Mark Bano, under my recomendation used Dap as well and had some difficulty with it because it is solvent based (reacted with the backing of his carpet) but might have put too much adhesive down. In the end, his 73 HD 18 turned out excellent. I will see how the HD 20 i/o holds up (did not use Dorset because it only came in 8 foot wide rolls).

I did a pontoon platform for my folks with a non solvent-based two years ago and it has held up well but time will tell. The Dap neoprene product is a B!tch to work with because you need to have proper ventilation but I have had great results.

Kevin-

 

Sooo.... the 1985 Hydrodyne 20 i/o did make it to water 5 times year from late July to Late September but only launched twice. The reason why was the first three launch attempts resulted in taking on water (1 gallon in five minutes) and that is bad Karma for water related activities and will not be a good day in the end.

I removed the tracking fin and resealed with 3M 4000, after the first launch attempt and still took on water (all 17 or 18 screws were tight to remove and tight to anchor). I removed the seawater water intake through hull fitting (this has a salt water Mercruiser with a separate heat exchanger and the block has ethylene-glycol in the block's water jacket) and resealed it on the Labor day weekend and still took on water.

Finally got under the boat on a creeper with a head light on and methodically looked for hull breaches and found a flat-head sized screwdriver-sized puncture above the balsa core but below the raised floor on the drivers side ~40 inches up from the transom. I beveled the inside and outside of the breach and applied some Matine-tex and problem solved.

I purchased the boat by the pictures provided as a "project" and never launched immediately after receiving due to its receiving condition and it has not moved around too much since it landed in WI. I would speculate that the puncture was prior to my receipt (probably in storage with the prior owners) but glad its sorted out.

The two shakedown launches and runs down the lake in September, there were not issues and we are looking to the summer of 2015 to give the 85 a workout.

A couple pics attached of the puncture and will be going into storage shortly.

Kevin-