1972 Keel Up Restoration

When I built the boat I measured the clearance of the motors in a twin application. Originally I was thinking to twin rig the boat. The clearance was not an issue, so if you decide to go with that style pylon it should work just fine for twins.

As far as obtaining a pylon like the 1st one you should be able to purchase one from Pete Pfankuch from Dyna- Ski. It should just be a standard 3" aluminum pylon that they currently use on their boats. His are nice because they are all brightly polished.

Greg

 

I would take either if I could find one. I have searched to no avail.

 

Greg - where did you get that pylon? I would be happy with either pylon and think I have a line on my 1st pic's option.

Jim - load paths for the pylon that Greg put on Bob's boat would not be an issue as I have 1" Coosa splashwell sides that double as 2 of the 5 knees and will carry loads from the rear of the deck If I mount pylon supports there.

I have to think ahead as the floor will go in soon and I will need plywood under the Coosa floor to bolt the ski pole to. The stringers will have to be notched to accomodate the plywood underside of the Coosa floor.

 

Here is a lead to a pylon like Greg's:

http://www.hydrodyners.com/forum/index.php?threads/hydrodyne-18-tournament-ski-pole-dimensions.1523/

jim

 

Greg - the issue I have with your style of pylon is that I widened the motorwell to 58". The 2 leg mounts would have to be a minimum of 60" apart at the base - inside dimension. The way the legs flare out would insure twin clearance.

 

Yes, the first pictured pylon is on my boat. It was purchased from Tom Miller (Fiberglass Products and Boat Repair) around 2007. It is basically the same as the ones used on current Dyna-ski boats as well, so either one should be able to get you something. If not, maybe check with KW Show ski equipment. If google does not help on contact info, try going through Lake Elmo Sports to get a hold of KW. Either way, you should be able to tell them how tall you want your pylon to get appropriate clearance over your motors/rope guard. If you need a rope guard, again, check with KW.

 

See Jim's post of today to see another picture of a pylon installation.

 

Saw that and definitely do not want to go that route as that installation eats alot of cockpit space. Good point about the shipping too - My original option1/1st pic is looking more attractive. I e-mailed Dyna-ski and they will give me any length I want for $500.

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

Spent Christmass at the cabin/workshop and got some stuff done. I laminated 3 1/2" coosa sheets together and made 2 side stringers. I found that cutting the pieces a bit larger than needed, guing them together, and then fine-tuning the size on a large stationary tool such as a table saw or band saw works much better than trying to save a bit of stock by making each lanimation the exact size and then gluing like I did for the center rear stringer. You can never get it exact. Once the assembies dried it was multiple trips into and out of the boat to fit them into the hull. In the 2 pics the starboard stringer has not been cut to size on the top. You can also see on the rear center stringer that the laninations did not exactly line up which is why I decided to cut/glue/cut to final size. After I cut the starboard stringer to final size I tacked it in (like all the others) with Bondo Glass. I also used Bondo Glass for gluing laminations together. The stuff dries in 10-20 min and does not put out near the fumes resin does which kept my wife and a cabin full of company happy.

To extend the outer 2 stringers forward I cut and fitted each piece individually and tacked it in. This was much easier as I could do this without getting into the boat.

Sorry the pics are not in the order I uploaded them - sometimes computers outsmart themselves. As you can see there is alot of dust in the hull which came from cutting Coosa board. That stuff makes a mess. Before each tacking session I wiped down the area of interest with acetone. To finish this work I cut a bunch of 1/2" 45 degree beveled strips and tacked them in along all edges to make tabbing easier - which is up next.