69 Dyne

Discussion in 'Hydrodyne® Boats' started by footer, Jun 24, 2008.

  1. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    Boat Model and Year:
    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    footer,

    The stringer boats have stringers on top of a layer of end grain balsa. Is all the balsa out of your boat?

    jim
     
  2. footer

    footer

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
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    8
    Boat Model and Year:
    hydrodyne 1969
    Bye the way, there were 2 layers of balsa running length wise and they were cut between 2"-3" in width. Some pieces were long and some were short. It looked like they were cut that way on purpose but it's hard to tell with all the rotting.
     
  3. footer

    footer

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
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    Boat Model and Year:
    hydrodyne 1969
    Yes, all the balsa is out.
     
  4. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    Boat Model and Year:
    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    If you want the original strength, I would put in a single layer of end grain balsa and then the stringers. The strength is in the balsa. That is how they are made now.

    jim
     
  5. markbano

    markbano Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    Boat Model and Year:
    1973 Hydrodyne Tournament Skiier
    If all of the balsa core is out, you may need to build a jig for the hull to keep everything lined up, and keep the hull straight, when the new core is put in. The hull isn't going to have much rigidity without the core. I would think you would lay up glass mat over the hull, put on the balsa, and then lay up mat followed by woven roving above the balsa core. Only then would you glass stringers into the boat. Stringers glassed right to the hull with no core would not be strong enough in my view.

    In reality, the later (1971 and newer, I think) Hydrodynes are made the same way the older ones are made, with a full balsa core. The only difference is that the stringers are placed on top of that core, with a "flat" floor on the stringers and an open footwell at the forward end of the boat and a bilge area at the stern. Of course, the core does not extend up the sides of the boat. I would replace the old core exactly as it was and build the floor above that. Again, however, I would verify that the hull has not flexed out of shape before spending the time and money on a new core only to have a hull that is not straight in the end.

    I have never replaced a core so I just don't know what might be involved in that respect.

    Good luck!

    Markbano
     
  6. markbano

    markbano Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    Boat Model and Year:
    1973 Hydrodyne Tournament Skiier
    We should have a new thread on trailer/launch tips...

    I usually don't have too much trouble but it doesn't go quite as quickly as it did in your video.

    I have no rollers, just bunks. On Monday, when I took the boat out, I actually drove it up using engine power. I hadn't done that before but have seen many others do it. Not sure what I think of the idea, although it worked just fine, I guess. If you put the trailer in too deep, it float around in back and doesn't get on the trailer straight. If you don't put the trailer in deep enough, then the winch is under heavy load trying to pull the boat onto the trailer. I've never figured out the perfect depth to back the trailer in.
     
  7. dynegreg1

    dynegreg1 King Dyner

    Joined:
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    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Pingree Grove, IL
    Boat Model and Year:
    1990 Hydrodyne 20 Open Bow
    Ski Team:
    Skimmer/Aquanut alum
    The problem is all trailers are different on these boats. On the original "Bat Wing" I always dropped it in just to the point where the top of the fenders meet the water. That was the perfect spot. The beautiful thing of that trailer is that when you put it in reverse it sends water running up the fiberglass deck which literally lifts the rear of the boat off of the trailer bunks and you are floating away. Very cool design. I welded guide posts pads to the frame when the fiberglass deck was off. That helps a lot when loading it onto the trailer. I wish they still made those trailers. They work awesome and they looked finished off compared to all the others that are out there.
     
  8. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    It sounds like you need some guides in the back. Driving it on digs holes.

    jim
     
  9. markbano

    markbano Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

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    1973 Hydrodyne Tournament Skiier
    That's what I figured. I'm not going to do it again.

    What I've figured out is that I center the boat between the upright guides but one of the guides is not "true" and so I am purposely putting the boat off center. Now that I've figured that out, I can probably avoid doing it wrong in the future.

    I take it out whenever I leave because I don't have a lift. When my brother's boat is not in the water, I use his lift. Otherwise I'm moored out away from the dock. I don't leave it in the water when I'm not there... I put it in the garage.
     
  10. dynebob1

    dynebob1 Boat of the Month

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    Location:
    Glen Ellyn, Illinois
    Boat Model and Year:
    1998 18 OB RUA- 250XS.and 1997 Twin Rig /225 optis
    Like Greg said..if you find the exact spot to lower the trailer in the water every time it's really effortless. With the batwing trailer you don't have to soak it as much as a regular bunk trailer. When I come back on, I drive it up under power and have someone watch the bow eye come up over the bow stop...connnect the winch strap, and give it a snug. I then look at the back of the boat and use the rear guide posts to see if on on the trailer square. If not put the engine in reverse, turn to to the side...give it a little throtle and move it til it squares up.

    Bob
     

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