Attention Jason:

Discussion in 'Questions/Comments' started by Bryan, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. Bryan

    Bryan Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2004
    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    Goonville, CA
    Boat Model and Year:
    Twin Rigged Canoe
    Ski Team:
    East Palmdale Ski Rats
    Jason, you recently tried registering with an email address that is invalid. Your @juno.com address is being returned to our mail server, with the error that your address does not exist on their server.

    You can post here as a guest for the time being, or please email me at admin at wswd.net with the correct info. The forum software requires a valid email address to authenticate and set up your account.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Jason

    Jason Hydrodyner

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2008
    Messages:
    27
    Boat Model and Year:
    dyne 18
    Thanks Bryan-- I will send you the correct information for my e-mail at the address that you gave me.

    In the meantime I would like to post two questions that I have regarding my 1977 hydrodyne 18 skier.

    My rear pylon is lifting the whole floor where it is bolted to when pulling an advanced slalom skier. The supports that connect to the pylon that are bolted into the fiberglass at the rear of the boat are solid, but the floor lifting really bothers me when I am pulling someone who is really ripping up the water. I need some advice how to get my rear pylon more solid.

    2nd question is the transom. My transom is cracked on both corners in the rear of the boat where the water well is located. The transom is weak, I have seen people run two full threaded bolts through the water well from the back of the boat, and then anchor them to a two by four or a metal beam so that the beam presses tight against the water well at the rear of boat near pylon. Using a nylon nut on both sides, and thread the bolt as tight as possible to give the transom some support. Any ideas how to fix?

    Thanks, Jason
     
  3. RiverRat

    RiverRat Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    508
    Location:
    Shoreview, MN
    Boat Model and Year:
    1971 Baby Dyne
    Ski Team:
    Twin Cities River Rats
    I've seen the same issues with an older 18' dyne my team had a while back.

    The floor doesn't have a great fix, other than take it out, and glass it back in again.

    The transom could just have cosmetic cracks, or they could be structural. Either way, you will want to at least fill them up so they don't allow water to seep in. If the transom is still solid, that should be all you need to do for now. If it's not solid any more, you will probably need to rebuild the transom. You can tap on the transom with a soft hammer and listen for dead spots to find out if your transom is good or not.

    The work can be done by yourself, there are good instructions on this site. Or you can have it done by someone who does this for a living (preferably the guy that built your boat, Tom Miller, contact info under the tom miller boats section).
     
  4. 2MERCS

    2MERCS Administrator

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2004
    Messages:
    794
    Location:
    Eastvale, Ca
    Boat Model and Year:
    1973 Hydrodyne 18 w/Twin 1150 Mercs
    I have the same problem with my transom, I have the cracks at each side and you can see that it is bowed slightly back. I have tapped and drilled my transom to check for water and it is fine. I also use metal plates that go over the transom on each motor. The bowing it from 35 years of 2 engines. I do plan in the next year or two redoing the transom.

    I would have someone sit in the back and watch your transom as you put a load on it to see if it moves around. If it does you have major trouble, Let me know.

    Daniel
     

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