Jim, In trimming the bow up, I have only three fixed settings on which the outdrive rests. Currently it's in the middle setting. I do have electronic tilt, but that's for full up/down only. Regarding the cavitation plate fins, were you suggesting removing those to see how it performs? It's something I have not tried. The steering effect is easy to live with and get used to -- just don't want to overlook little things that are easy to address like a front grill (thanks again). Dave
Yes, remove the fin and try the other trim settings. The middle is going to be what you want for slalom probably. The full down will work for slower stuff. The full up probably will porpoise. If none of that works I can work with you on a modified prop. jim
Re: New Owner Question(s) Hey guys...and happy birthday Jim! Could use some guidance again as I just returned from a two-week lake vacation with my family and my "new" '68. Q1. While we popped the kids out of the water as you'd expect, to my surprise (and slight embarrassment) it really struggles pulling my 225lb from a deep water slalom start. 230+hp should be plenty so I suspect the prop but you guys are the experts. I bought this from a barefooter who may have been more interested in speed? It tops out at about 47mph. I'm hoping you can view my prop from previous posts and give it to me straight. Q2. Warms up and idles fine but there's always a delay when hitting the throttle like it gets too much gas -- wondering if that's typical in older carburated engines like mine or can be eliminated out by a carb expert. Q3. My rope guard/holder (can't call it a pylon) is strong and steady but obviously not original. Right? What weight limitations would you guys put on it? Q4. A neighbor has an original 74 Dyne and the floor drops down to the hull just in front of the front seat -- which I would think would provide significantly more driver leg room. I think I see that on other 18s pictured here as well. What are your thoughts on the value of making that modification? Q5. Can anyone recommend a vendor for a decent mirror? Have you guys ever seen the one with three suction cup mount? I got one with the boat but it is old and doesn't hold suction well. Dave
Q 1 and 2 I would start with the basics. Do a major tune up. Install new plugs properly gapped etc. Install new points and condenser and time the engine. When I had the 302 in my boat, I could tell if the engine was 1 degree out of time by the hole shot. Verify that your centrifugal advance is working by twisting the distributor shaft back and forth. It should be free to move and be spring loaded to the retarded position. Tell me the make of carburetor. I can't tell by the picture. If the above does not work, we may have to go there. Take the prop off and tell me the number on it. It is probably on the back of the hub. We may have to go there too. Is it steel or aluminum? Going down in pitch will give you more hole shot. What is your top rpm now? Q3 My guess is that your rope guard is original and quite strong. Like I said before your boat is the only 60's I/O I have ever seen. It is an early I/O, and looks a little different. Q4 Your boat has the double thickness balsa bottom and no raised floor, so you can't cut out a foot well (I think). You should call Tom Miller on this one. Q5 Take a look at the mirror on the pictured 17.6. That is a modern skiboat mirror and is a possibility. Take a look at the pictured mirror in my boat. That is the original and was used in the 70's on the 18. It is a modified big rig mirror and I love it. I don't believe any suction cup mirror will hold up. jim
I did a little checking on your drive. There is a long hub and short hub. You need to know which you have before you buy a prop. Also you have a left hand prop which will somewhat limit your choice of props. jim
Unfortunately Jim, I'm only around the boat on weekends so I'll get back to you with more information that I don't have on the prop and max RPM. I get 30 mph at 2800 rpms From my binder of refurb notes: The carb is a Holly 80246 w/electric choke New Crane cam (grind number HMV-260-2-NC) and Crane springs New Edelbrock Performer "2121" dual plane aluminum intake manifold When I got the boat, we did a compression check and all were within tolerance. While there, we replaced all the plugs with properly gapped ones and my mechanic cousin updated the points to electronic ignition over the winter. He called me for the timing from the engine manual and I gave it to him over the phone. Maybe it's still off. I'm quite engine challenged so need supervision to do even the simple stuff -- good engine to learn on. Assuming all is well--what should I expect performance wise from this boat? Should it actually be yanking me out of the water like my brother's 351 Ford Mastercraft, fill my sinus cavities with algea, or something inbetween? The mirror from the rig is a neat design, but I prefer the single mount of the newer boat. Can I get that online somewhere?
A 302 will not pull like a 351. Your brothers boat probably tops out at about 42. I think that if you go down 4 inches in pitch, yours will do about the same at 5000 rpm which should not hurt a 302. That is what I would do and watch your rpm wide open lightly loaded. You might want to move your trim stop full in for maximum tuck for pulling you up. It would be a good place to start. Those two things should maximize your performance at the bottom end. The full in trim will cut the top end more. A master craft has a drive shaft angle that is good for bottom end and has no top end. That is helping him. His engine has a marine cam and yours has an automotive cam although it is listed for towing in the 1500-4500 rpm range. Marine cams belong in boats and car cams belong in cars. I tried to find a source for that mirror, and I was unsuccessful. You may have to buy a windshield mount and have the deck mount fabricated. You can do a Google search for ski boat mirrors and come up with most of them. I would still like to see the information that I asked for above. jim
Oh, I just saw the prop pitch. That prop is killing your low end thrust. I don't know what your gear ratio is, (I think it is 1.6) but my first choice would be a 17 pitch prop. My second choice would be a 19. The 17 will get you closer to the mastercraft. Stainless props are expensive, so you might want to try aluminum. A 17 aluminum can be repitched to a 19 if the 17 kills too much top end. I believe the stainless props can only be repitched 1 inch. I would also go down in diameter if possible. jim
I just ran some numbers and the 19 may be the best. Let's hold off on the pitch until you get the max rpm information. jim
