Up and Running! The only currently known issue is the first link is not working, I will fix that tonight. Take a look around and tell me what you think. I am also in the process of making the Hydrodyne Factory tour video into a streaming format and that should be up in a couple of days. Daniel http://hydrodyners.com/restoration/resto.html
Looks great!!! The only one I couldn't get to open is the "inspection walk around" link. Are we going to have some sort of restoration link on the home page or how will people know that this is here? Also - our home page still says that the section is coming soon. I guess we can change that now. Thanks again for all the work on this. I think folks will really find it helpful. I get a lot of emails with questions that will be answered by the photos and descriptions. You really did a nice job on this, as always!
I am working on the link. I fixed it once but must not have saved it. I will be changing the home page and will be adding a link in the "About Dynes" Section. I will be re working the about dynes page so it looks a bit more professional also. Daniel
Hey Mark: Enjoyed the floor removal pictures fo your 73 on the resto station....actually brought back memories fo my rear floor area of 2001. I had to replace the rear floor section of My 75 a few years back and it was a bit of a project, worth it in the end though. Just an FIY, I've read and come across a few discussions indicating that pressure treated (PT) wood products can be problematic with resin and epoxy. The PT wood holds alot of moisture (often weighs a lot more at the lumber store due to moisture content) and will not bond well, if at all. I used pecky cypress as a bulkhead when I replaced the rear bilge area of the 75. Hope you get it all back togather for the summer, Kevin-
Thanks, Kevin. You are correct. Treated wood will not bond properly with fiberglass resin. The written descriptions under the pictures point that out if you read through them. It is OK to use treated lumber for stringers, backing plates, and for the hull-to-deck shoebox joint gap but otherwise you need to use standard plywood, particularly for the floor and the sub-deck (gunwale) structures. When laminating glass to wood, the idea is to use acetone to clean the pores in the wood. The resin will then fill the pores and create a strong bond. Since "pressure" treated wood already has fully gorged cellular structures, it does not accept the resin, resulting in delamination of fiberglass from the wood. Some fiberglass applications actually use acetone mixed with resin to make the resin more volitile so that it soaks into the wood further, creating an even stronger bond. The best plywood for these applications is an AC grade which has fewer knots and hollow structures. For all non-plywood structures that will accept fiberglass resin for lamination, you want to stick with porous woods like pine or balsa. Hardwoods also do not accept resin as well as more porous "soft" woods and hard woods add weight to the boat. Best, MarkBano
Mark, Thanks for the restoration project photos and guide. What a motivator. Cant wait to get to mine. You really did a great job! Regards
