Running a big motor on an 18

Discussion in 'Hydrodyne® Boats' started by jim, Feb 1, 2007.

  1. RiverRat

    RiverRat Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
    Messages:
    508
    Location:
    Shoreview, MN
    Boat Model and Year:
    1971 Baby Dyne
    Ski Team:
    Twin Cities River Rats
    On the tripod pylons on the 18' dynes, the main base that mounts to the floor is pushed forward, and lifted when pulling on the tow rope. I noticed this when the floor of an 18'er we used to have would lift considerably when pulling a large load. I would be more concerned with making sure that base can't pull out of the floor, and/or the floor can't be ripped off the stringers in the hull than with making sure it doesn't push forward. Of course, I have no solution... only a problem.

    I think this may be at least part of the reason that hydrodyne went with the vertical single pole through the deck at the transom well on the 20' models. With this type of pylon, the floor is only being pushed forward, and not pulled upwards. And when you are dealing with glues/epoxies, shear strength is much greater than tensile strength. You just need to make sure the transom well can handle the load.
     
  2. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2006
    Messages:
    2,321
    Location:
    FL
    Boat Model and Year:
    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    A link like I described would make that situation worse.

    jim
     
  3. dynegreg1

    dynegreg1 King Dyner

    Joined:
    May 31, 2006
    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Pingree Grove, IL
    Boat Model and Year:
    1990 Hydrodyne 20 Open Bow
    Ski Team:
    Skimmer/Aquanut alum
    Mark,

    Are you filling the original holes for your pylon on the rear of the deck? If so, then you can probably mount it a few inches toward the rear like I did with mine. You should be able to mount it though the deck, and add some strength. I recommend epoxying a piece of wood in that area. I know the new Dyne's are more reinforced in that area. If you mount your pylon through the deck then you can finish off the rear of the boat with a drop down door like I did with mine. Cleans it up.

    I cut out the center, mounted a mirror, and placed a Hydrodyne decal in the center to trick it out.

    Greg
     

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  4. markbano

    markbano Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2005
    Messages:
    854
    Boat Model and Year:
    1973 Hydrodyne Tournament Skiier
    I was going to leave the mounting locations where they are.

    I installed some new supports under the rear decks. One was completely rotted.

    Under the floor, the boat was built with a solid block of many layers of plywood which is literally molded into the layup of the hull to support the base of the tow pole. The block was rock solid and had no rot, as it was completely enclosed in fiberglass. I removed the glass from the top of it when I removed the floor to be sure it was sound. I'm not sure you could replace it without damaging the hull anyway.

    I'm not going to be pulling the kind of loads that a ski team would pull, particularly since I'm not going to be twin-rigged. I'm inclined to mount it like it was before. It worked for over 30 years that way. The problem with moving the holes on the deck is that it requires expensive gel coat repair of the non-skid in those areas, and I'm already paying for too many of those repairs.

    Thanks for all the help. Interesting stuff...
     
  5. jim

    jim Hydrodyne 18 Specialist

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2006
    Messages:
    2,321
    Location:
    FL
    Boat Model and Year:
    77 Dyne 18 I/O converted to Outboard
    I'll vote for that.

    jim
     
  6. dynegreg1

    dynegreg1 King Dyner

    Joined:
    May 31, 2006
    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Pingree Grove, IL
    Boat Model and Year:
    1990 Hydrodyne 20 Open Bow
    Ski Team:
    Skimmer/Aquanut alum

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