Yes that is the way to do it right. (transom) I was just floating an idea. Taking the deck off is a project but it lets you get to the transom and floor. If the core is good and the stringers are good and the floor is good all you have to do is replace the transom. I would replace the transom thicker than the original for more strength.
The fin is for tracking while skiers pull hard on the boat. I've had both, with a fin and without. I could keep my O/B in the course pretty good without a fin. If your not gonna be doing any high level skiing just leave it off. You do have to turn at a little bit slower speed though.
Not to discredit or confuse but two layers of 3/4 marine plywood, laminated together to get a 2 1/4 transom for an i/o is the goal. You are going to have to take the top deck completely off to do it right. If you were converting from an i/o and running more outboard ponies or twins, then yes thicker transom is better to bear the weight and torque. If you remain and i/o, then the inner and outer transom plate have very specific thickness requirements for Mercruiser or other manufactures. Consult with your shop, they will know what to do and get you back on the water. KevinB-
The 'transom stuff' is likely a composite called SeaCast. It is a pourable mixture and it is very effective. I have never heard of a case of it not working, ripping out or any kind of failure. Unfortunately, as Jim mentions, you gotta get the deck off so you can run a chain saw down in between the inner and outer skins of the transom. By the time you get the deck off, cutting the inner skin and replacing the transom plywood and re-glassing it is a comparatively simple matter. You can do a partial deck removal just to get to the transom, but it involves cutting just the rear section of the deck apart from the rest. If you don't mind cutting the textured section of deck and reglassing it back together it is much easier that taking the whole deck off, but it is very difficult to cosmetically hide the cut. It is also very important that whoever does it pays strict attention to splicing it back together. I have seen it done on some Powercat boats with success (mine for example, I put a partial bulkhead under the splice and glassed it back a foot in each direction) and I have seen it done as a botch job that looked like crap and cracked at the seam. It is very susceptible to cracking once it has been done. It will not have the same weight bearing capability as new, and for a boat that has skiers climbing all over the gunnels it is not something I would suggest without a lot of thought. That said, a really good 'glass man can make chicken salad from chicken poop. The fact is, rebuilding a boat is a pretty involved commitment. It is labor intensive dirty itchy stinky sweaty work, thus it is expensive to farm out but it comes with a really cool payoff. IMO the $60K comp boats can't compare with the cool factor of a vintage tournament boat. If you decide to have someone do it, make sure it is someone who has a known track record of good work. There are a LOT of people out there who will apply nice new fiberglass right on top of your vintage dirt. It won't hold together long like that.
I had an older 18 footer that had only the rear section of the deck removed to do the repairs and then spliced back in at the textured area. It looked so bad they put a piece of non skid on it to dummy it up and it looked terrible. If you're not pulling the entire deck and go for the rear section only, find someone who knows what they are doing or you won't be happy with the repairs. Bob
I would never cut the deck. even though im sure it would be easier I think you would always be able to tell. my plan as of now is to take deck off and replace transom. waiting to get a estimate on transom, glassing in new floor and new gelcoat which may end up being more than I want. tony at the boat shop told me his price was gonna make me cry. the deck above the rub rails apparently has automotive paint on it and the clear coat is starting the crack and flake off in spots and apparently automotive and boat gelcoat doesn't do well together. but im planning on doin majority of the work myself, everything except paint and gelcoat anyway just wanting to see what I would be into it for if I let a boat shop do it. because I am so anxious to get it on the water and I know it will take me a year or better to do it all. I have been researching this magic seacast. went to website and watched several youtube videos on it. seems like its a tried and true method of core and transom repair. says its three times stronger than wood and for a shadetree do it yourselfer seems like it would be ten times easier because of all the fiberglass it would do away with. trick to it I think would be getting wood out of there without destroying the glass in an inch and half area two foot deep. im just ready to get started but wanting second and third opinions on everything (transom, paint, motor, lower unit, seats and accessories). my wife has gave me a 10k budget. she wants a boat too but doesn't have the emotional attachment to this boat as I do. so she is just rolling her eyes and walks away every afternoon when she walks out to the shop and I tell her well need tires for trailer,gonna have to re-gelcoat it,gotta build some seats, motor needs work, floor needs replaced, transom is rotten. so gonna get a overall ballpark figure before I jump headfirst into this project.
I am sorry to tell you this but 10K will not do it. Tell us exactly what needs replacement ie transom, stringers, floor. I am doing the same thing with my boat - check the thread out "1972 Keel Up Restoration". This is not a project for a weekend mechanic or a backyard fiberglasser. This kind of stuff takes alot of labor. If you want a Dyne that is good and works find one in the classified ads. If you are set on restoring yours it will cost the same as a new boat. Then you need rigging etc. There are inexpensive ways to restore a boat but you get what you pay for. The people on this site love the old Dyne lines and have done very nice restorations - but it is like old cars - you never will make money and you will be lucky to recoup your investment. Domt cut the deck.
Hope you will share what the transom estimate was from the boat shop and which repair method he would use.
Well, I would cut the deck. It is pretty thin there and I would use that opportunity to fix that. My boat is a converted I /O so the motor well was fabricated and designed to my specs. I would change the motor well to a more modern design. I would not consider Seacast transom. That has been tried on a Dyne and it was a disaster. It changed the angle and thickness. Seacast has been used for stringer repair succesfully, along with a composite floor. I believe a good glass man could cut the deck and the repair would be better than new and way cheaper. jim
