1972 Keel Up Restoration

Here's another option for dual controls on an 18 footer.

( Control pod made up by Dyna-Ski and control lever set up is Gaffrig)

 

Finally got to do some work on the boat! I did alot of glassing the knees to the transom and then started on the floor.

The white stuff on top of the stringers is core adhesive. I have more of that than I need and this is a good use for it.


In the pic above you see the plywood backing glassed to the Coosa board. This will be for the access plate to the fin mounting area.

And here is the floor glassed in with 17oz bi-ax. The white circle is the fin access hole with cloth yet to be cut out.

Then I had some fun....

 

For some reason the last pic of the floor did not upload so here it is: The white circle is the cloth over the fin access hole - yet to be cut out.

 

Some more work done this weekend. What is notable about the 2 installed items is that the top depth gauge has a different bezel than the factory one. The bottom unit is a cig lighter/chart light with the same bezel as the depth gauge. These bezels are Wema guage bezels which is what is going in the other 6 holes. Smartcraft up top.

I also got some more floor in A start to the ski pole mounting base And finally the motorwell. The motorwell is not attached to the hull yet as the deck still needs to be removed to glass the underside of the motorwell and the floor forward is not complete. Here is the partially completed motorwell. The well is not attached to the hull yet because the deck needs to be removed to glass the underside of the motorwell and the forward floor still needs work.

 

I seriously thought about cutting the rear and starboard side of the bubble to level the dash with respect to the rest of the hull. I decided against that as that would significantly change the lines of a classic Hydrodyne. (I did put an arch in the back after seeing some of your pics and felt that this did not alter but improved the classic lines). What I plan to do with the 3 large holes is obviously put a tach/GPS speedometer/tach in there. Smartcraft makes a 3 piece combo designed for twins and it is pricey at $900. A classic Dyne has 2 speedometers but this is a resto-mod and therefore the single GPS speedo should do it.

I then wanted to fill the dash with smaller important gauges and from left to right they will be temp x 2, oil press x 2, RPM sync (I needed something to meaningfully fill an odd hole), water press x 2, trim x 2. As I stated before all these gauges will be Smartcraft. I was hopeing that I could use less expemsive gauges on the upper dash to save some money and plumbing and bought a couple of Wema gauges to compare to the SC100 smartcraft gauges that I have. They were close but I want it to be perfect and so will spend the extra $200 on Smartcraft for the upper dash. I can find Smartcraft SC100 gauges on e-bay and greatlakesskipper for about $40-$60. The ones I cant find are $80.

The lower gauges will all be Wemas. They are close enough in appearance to SC100's and the separation between the upper dash and lower should mask the minor differences. In addition to the 2 in the pic the top left will be fuel in the bow tank and the bottom will be water level in the stern. The right side will be 2 ammeters and 2 volt meters.

Then I have to find a logical place for 2 push-pull switches for the lights and bilge pump and I would also like to install 2 battery cut-off switches to the left of the lower instrument cluster which will be close to the 2 batteries under the bow. I plan on installing a 12" grab bar in front of the passenger seat for acceleration.

When I build the seat mounts there will be a glove box under the driver's seat facing port and a stereo under the pax seat facing starboard for easy access from the driver's seat.

Enough dreaming - time for results!

 

I went back and reread the first part of this and it made me curious. Were there any holes drilled down into the core to fasten the pine to it? I am wondering how so much water got into the core. The end grain balsa should not propagate water like that. I am wondering if a little got in and froze and broke up the core. What do you think?

jim

 

That is possible. The core was so rotten that it would have been impossible to determine if holes were drilled. The boat did come from Wisconsin so freezing is definitely a possibility.

 

I was thinking about adding 1969-72 Corvette type spoilers to the rear deck on each side of the motorwell. Where they would go in this pic is in the upper right and bottom center. I think an early 70's boat would look really cool with an early 70's Corvette spoilers on each side of the motorwell. The spoilers would be about 3" high. Also in this pic I am thinking about fairing the center protrusion into the arch. The center protrusion is for the port motor rigging hose on the side you can see and the hydraulic steering hoses to the starboard motor on the side you can't see. Your Thoughts and suggestions?

 

Since you asked, I would not put anything on the boat that a ski rope could hang on. If you ever decide to do around the boats, the rope can go places that you never dreamed of when you are learning.

It is a little late for this suggestion, but i would eliminate the block and bring the floor of the well up to the deck at the front. That is how mine was done. The hoses and wires could then come up through the floor of the well.

I had a 71 454 Corvette once upon a time, with a bunch of Guldstrand mods to the suspension and steering.

jim

 

I have had 2 Corvettes - the 1st was a 70 convertible with a 454 and 4 on the floor. That car would go 90 in second gear! I bought it in 1976 for 5K. The second was a 68 with a Tri-power 427 - also a convertible with 4 on the floor. Those are fun cars but now I just do boats and drive a truck to tow them.

As far as putting Corvette spoilers on and ski rope clearance - I have done around the boat both as a slalom skier and a driver. The key is the other guy in the boat that guides the rope during the act. I dont think the spoilers would affect that.

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I have been looking into paint. I do not have a spray gun or booth and am really looking hard at the Interlux paint that can be applied with a roller. It would cost me about 3K to have the boat gel-coated but I could do the Interlux for about $400. I have seen nice pictures on other forums and this may be a good way to go. Talk to me guys on this.