Hi Van: Agreed, I would assume this is Boat #2. I spent the weekend wet sanding the hull and have everything ready above the chines (1st 1000 grit 3M wet/dry followed by 2000 grit, my arms are trashed, what a PITA). Getting the HD boats stickers off was equally a challenge as they were sun checked and did not wat to come off a one piece. I am ready for the power tools to take this to the next level. I'm going to just hit the bottom below the chines with power tools as well. Way too much work to wet sand and this is an area that doesn't get direct sun light and the 3m rubbing compound and subsequent iterations of cleaner and sealers should do the trick. Haven't spent any time with the engine but have videos of it runing; hopefully no issues. The prior owner had a speed shop but assured me that he did not create a "monster". I have the dyno sheet and the engine tested at 299 hp at 4,200 rpms. It was bored .30 over and has HD pistons and rods, maybe a little hotter than the original 350cid/260 hp but he used the original cam, manifold, and carb. I'm assuming this dyno test was on the flywheel and not on the prop. I have a 21 pitch 13 3/4 high five prop that should make this a good all around platform. High five props slip enough in the corners of a dog bone to hold up the speed nicely. Will show pics as soon as the side decals are on (I found a shop out east that took a CAD file that I created and they are perfect). Therefore, I don't need the side shots of the HD boats TM decals as this boat had them but I would appreciate a jpg of the spark arrestor cover. Thanks! Kevin-
Vann my hull# is THIE000G788. The previous owner of this boat was one of the Crosby grandaughters. When we went and picked up the boat she told me that they used it in a couple boat shows and such, but the boat never sold so her Dad "bought" the boat. She told me her dad "bought" many of the Hydrodyne boats over the years that wouldn't sell. She was given the boat when her and her husband bought a lake house in the early 90's and it was stored there in a heated garage when we picked it up. It looks brand new, as you know, as you seen it on the trip home in Alex city. This pic was taken right after the trip home, no washing, waxing or trick "wet the boat and then take pic". Ashley
Kevin these are the decals you ask about. Do any of you know where to get a fuse cluster like the picture attached. In has little rocker switched wiht lights. I've had to replace with rocker switched without lights. Vann Owens
Hi Van: Ive got the a diffrent dash switch set-up with the same situation (one bad breaker switch and will have to rewire to a diffrent board. Thanks for the pic of the spark arrestor cover. I should be able to have one recreated. I have to replace the back deck this weekend. Then it will be tine to glass it in and carpet. Water by the end of May? Kevin-
Kevin, Found this on Ebay, it may do for you. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-Alph ... 40&vxp=mtr Ashley
Thanks Ashley but I think I'm going to pass due to poor feedback and my original plan. My CAD guy at work has retraced the "Hydrodyne Boats TM" logo and we are working with a decal shop out of Cali to reproduce the side decals and will eventually get to the spark arrestor cove decal (I have the arrestor cover with a partial, thanks Vann, its the same as yours). The Decal shop is vinylapproach,com and the contact is Mark Lewis. His prices are very reasonable IMO. I will forward the Vinyl Approach info to Daniel as a resource as well for future decals. A couple pics of the progress. Foredeck and passengers side done to the chine but am working on the dash area and drivers side tonight. Gauges, carpet, lower unit U-jount and exhaust belows, and lower shift cable (why not if the out-drive is coming off) ordered a wel, should arrive before next weekend. Rear deck is also coming out due to soft spots, first 8 feet. Carpet is a bit of a challenge as it is greater than 8 ft (102 inches with the sides and chines but I was informed of a great resource at pontoonstuff.com and will order the 8.5 ft. I do have a day job so the end of May is starting to fade. Good thing we have the 75 as a backup for now. Kevin Bugel-
Here is a sneek peak of the hydrodyne 20' i/o with it new decals. I had them reproduced from The Vinyl Approach and they have the pattern if anyone is interested. The contact info is: The Vinyl Approach PO BOX 20031 WORCESTER, MA 01602-0031 The Vinyl Approachsales@vinylapproach.com 888-887-4587 or 508-335-5554
You guys have 2 beautiful boats. Would love to get them together and drive them to see how much difference there is. Question about the transon of the boat. I had to replace a speedo pick this spring. When I put a small screw in a new place at the bottom of the transom the screw had no grip once past the fiberglass. i thinking I have bad wood because of water getting in around the old screws on the old speedo pickup. Boat had always been stored in the dry. How can I test the remainder of the transom without drilling a lot of holes? Vann
Depending on how low down you put the screw in, you might have actually gone under the plywood. When I rebuilt my transom, I found that the original transom boards were not cut to the exact shape of the bottom of the hull. They are cut "close" and then are shaved to make them fit. When I rebuilt my transom, I used the original transom boards (the one that was still complete, anyway) as a template, so I had the same issue with my new transom boards. I filled in the gaps along the bottom with fairing compound to make sure there was no place for water to collect and get at the wood. The original transom didn't have that, so a screw going into that area would make you think there is rotted wood there. Best ways to tell if you have a rotted transom? Check to see that the transom is straight. Check for any cracks along the bilge that would suggest a place where water can get in. From inside the boat, take a solid metal object like a hammer and tap lightly across all areas of the transom. You get a very solid clunk sound on a solid transom. In areas of rot, it is a much more hollow sound with some vibration. You'll know the difference. You can put 3M Marine 5200 on the screw and that will help it stay in.... You can also use a wide threat stainless crew. Hope this helps. MarkBano
Hi Van: I had a little moisture come out of the pitot screws when I removed them on the 85 20' and they sit pretty low so Mark may be onto something regarding the transom ply, For every screw, I first attempted to tighten first and all had good bite but I am going to through bolt the brackets on the new ski deck with a heavy washer or backing plate and seal them up good for added strength. you might try taking a pin and poke around at an angle to the holes to see if there is any wood after the gel and glass. I am re-sealing the pitot ski deck penetrations as I reassemble with polyurthane, maybe this is a maintenance issue every 3-5 for the pitots or anything that is below the water line. As to the potential for the transom to bow; an i/o is through bolted to hold the outdrive assembly which doesn't weigh too much (maybe 100 lbs at best. There really isn't any down pressure weight on the transom of an i/o compared to the full weight an outboard. Hewever, there is a torque issue with both when hammering the throttle down for holeshot and over time, if the transom of an i/o were water logged as in shot, the bowing effect might show up but so would a lot of spider cracks as well I'd imagine. I have pulled the 1975 18' T-skier out of Summerset Marine (may have an interested party) and am heading north for a long weekend with family. Laters, Kevin-
