1963? Hydrodyne custome deluxe 1700 restoration thread

Wow Brian! I've been silently following along. Your creativity and enthusiasm makes this all very exciting. When it's all completed, we must have a get together at Lake Milton and cruise around! Or, what about a Hydrodyners meet?!

 

A Hydrodyners Meat.
Swvski, where's the picture of the pork chop driving the Dyne?
Jim, I realize that I am being obnoxious, but you must admit that the picture was a most excellent response to bunny hop boy's unforgivable foray into this superb realm.
On a very seriously happy note, I am willing to commit time, cases of family grade libations, and chip in for a pig roast. This thing fizzled out in 2007. Given the resolve of the active members, this effort could go big. TJ lives way down south. There are bunches of us in northern Illinois and more again up in the Great State of Wisconsin. Two Mercs and I conferred on the subject. Daniel and Bryan were willing to travel to the Dyne-In back then. It stands to be even better now. Vsonic on this board even went to the point of talking to the owners of the Pea Patch in Manitowish Waters about setting up a party room where each of the attendees would pay a fixed fee for food and the bar was cash based. The Manitowish Waters Skiing Skeeters offered to give the Hydrodyners a big hello if our group was to be in attendance at their show. The Manitowish Waters chain of lakes would be a perfect place to meet. It is a long way from some of the members of this forum.

 

OK Tim, I found the picture to humor you. Can you please GET A GRIP?

jim

 

Would be fun once my boat runs. Would have to plan it as part of a camping trip as that is what we do in the summer! Thus weekend is ending a 10 day outing up to traverse Bay Area. Beautiful area and we kayaked on Lake Michigan. Wavy and dang cold, but what a hoot!

Looking forward to getting back to work on the dyne next week.

corrected it to "10 day"!!!!

 

Finally made some progress. Cut the half in balsa core up to fit into the last two spots. Wetted out the area, put 18oz roving down, then 1.5 oz Matt. Again, wet layup trying to get as much adhesion as possible. Brush coated the scrim fabric side of the balsa and then laid it down into place. Covered with wax paper and covered in weights to press it down. Later in day, removed and did the same to the other side.

Once cured, I took the belt sander to it. Any glass threads poking up I sanded down and went over the balsa lightly also. Used body filler to fill in around the edges and taper up to the 3/4" oak side boards. I then laid a layer of 1.5 oz Matt over all of it and after that cured, a layer of Roving. Feels very solid.

I now need to take a grinder with a wire brush or sanding flap disc and clean up the dirty glass along the edges. I want to do the final floor layup laying two layers of roving on the floor overlapping the outer oak stringers and a second layer that goes from spray rail to spray rail. Will add a little weight to the boat, but I would rather have it be a bit stronger and lose a little performance.

Ordered more resin last night, not sure when I will finish the floor. Still have some left, but I think I will start on a few spot repairs under the deck.

Still need a motor for this thing, but I have a couple people looking for one. Might try throwing one of my B18's on my mill and bore it myself, then hone to size for B20 pistons. Need to check on if the cam and head are the same for the B-20 as the B-18.

Brian

 

Even if the cam and heads are not the same, I would not be reluctant to try it as long as there is clearance between the valves and piston. I doubt if that is a problem.

jim

 

I think it would be fine, the B20 heads might have larger valves in them for more flow. But at this point, I do not care. If it runs and pushes the boat onto plane I will take it. Still, think I will wait and see if I find a running motor. They are out there. Plenty of work to do before I need to look at a motor. Plenty of work to do on the Formula right now also!

 

Brian - I hope your method of attaching core to the hull works. They make core adhesive for a reason. Resin in theory should work as long as you weighted all parts of the core into the resin and I think your posts indicate that. So my general question is why is core adhesive even needed? I suspect the answer is that core adhesive is like glue and easily bonds to glass. When you wet out the top of the core to apply glass make sure you have lots of resin on hand.

 

I thought about that after reading your thread, but decided not to. I have done a bit with core materials in the aerospace and automotive fields to include balsa and honeycombs. Vacuum bagging really makes it easy due to the composites being pressed together. hand layup is a bit different, but I did go with a wet layup of the two layers under the core, coated the core and then pressed them together. being that the resin soaked up through the balsa core in most areas, leads me to believe it is well bonded. The other part is after the resin cured, I could walk on the core. Before, that section of the hull was very flexible and would creak if I put much weight on it. With just the glass and core, it was now solid. A slight flex with 270 pounds point loaded, but before I think that would have cracked the hull. I do not think the 31 oz layer would add that much strength without the core adding to the rigidity due to the resin soaking most of the soft balsa. Your concern is well to be voiced, you never know who will read this thread in the future and might not do the same as me. I would never do a layup as wet as I did, but I was really more concerned about proper bonding of the glass and core to the hull. The top layers were wetted out properly.

That and looking at all the raw voids where the original core was not even attached to the hull, I am sure I did better than the standard practice of the times 50 years ago!

Brian

 

Made some good progress on the dyne this weekend! Finished the glass work from the front of the core to within 4' of the transom. Since I cut the old glass on top of the oak out stringer, I wanted to make sure the old cut joint was not a weakness point. So since the first layer of roving barely covered the joint, I started by putting two layers of 1.5 oz matt over the joint. (I already have a layer of matt and a layer of roving over the new core at this point) First layer about 5-6" wide, second about 10" wide. Good overlap. Then I ran a piece of roving from one side to the other going over the cut joint by about 6-10" up the side of the boat. I still have to do the last 4' of the boat and I will make that even stronger.

I also believe I found a motor for the boat, going to pick it up wednesday. AQ130C complete with a 270 outdrive, rebuilt. Should be nice a real blessing to boosting this project along! I will keep you updated.